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About Paithani Sarees

The Paithani, a handloom treasure purely woven in silk and zari (thread made of gold or silver) is extremely popular in India. These sarees are mostly woven in Paithan in Maharashtra. Yeola, Pune, Nasik and Malegaon in Maharashtra are the other centres where weaving of Paithani sarees is undertaken. These sarees were initially woven specially for queens and other members of the royal family by weavers in the palaces. However, with the passage of time, these sarees are now easily available worldwide.

• Weaving Paithani Saree

  Pure silk is used in the weaving of the body and pure gold and silver zari is used in the pallu and the border of the saree. The zari used in the preparation of the saree is specially procured from Surat in Gujarat. The process of preparation of a Paithani saree can take a time period ranging from a month to years.

• Paithani Saree Designs

  Traditionally, Paithanis used to have a plain body with a heavy golden border and a large pallu. The most commonly used motifs in the body of these sarees are ‘kamal’ (lot-us flower), ‘hans’ (swan), ‘asharfi’ (coin), ‘asawalli’ (flowering vine), ‘Bangadi mor’ (peacock in bangle) and more. In the pallu of such sarees, certain motifs are very commonly found like ‘Asawali’, ‘Panja’ (a flower in a geometrical shape) and ‘Muthada’ (a geometrical shape).

• Traditional Colours for a Paithani Saree

  Paithani sarees are woven in a number of colours. These colours can be pure or created using a blend of different coloured yarns. The colours that are typically used in these sarees are black, yellow and ‘neeligungi’ along with other blends of hues.

Types of Paithani Sarees

Paithani sarees are differentiated on the basis of the colours, weaving techniques and motif. Here are the different types of Paithani sarees that deserve a place in your heart and wardrobe.

• Bangdi Mor Paithani Saree

  “Bangadi mor” means a peacock in a bangle or a peacock woven in the shape of a bangle. The motif is usually woven onto the pallu. This is one of the most commonly found designs of the Paithani saree.

• Ekdhoti Weave Paithani Saree

  For the ekdhoti weave Paithani saree, a single shuttle is used for weaving of weft. The colour of the warp yarn is different from that of the weft yarn. These sarees have a narali border and simple butti designs such as coins or peas.

• Brocade Paithani

  Some Paithani sarees line the border of the sarees with brocade. The more intricate the work of brocade, the more expensive the saree will be.

• Munia Brocade Paithani

  In this kind of saree, parrots are woven on the pallu as well as on the border. These parrots are always in leaf green colour and sometimes also known as “tota-maina”.

• Banarasi Paithani Silk Saree

  This one-of-a-kind saree blends the finest of Paithani and Banarasi weaves. The plain pattern on the saree combines classic and contemporary themes.

• Yeola Paithani Silk Saree

  This saree is known for enthralling borders and rich pallu that carries an oblique square design. It comes in dominant and contrasting colours – one on the body and one on the pallu and border with motifs and designs adorning the pallu.

• Georgette Paithani Silk Saree

  Paithanis in pure georgette with a border of golden zari is one of the best of its kind. The border and the pallu bear a flower design and delicate floral embellishments on the body. Women wear these sarees at grand occasions or family weddings.

• Maharani Paithani Saree

  It is a great combination of heritage and innovation that has a golden zari border and a rich pallu woven with patterns of different designs including peacocks, architectural designs of Ajanta, flowers, leaves etc.

• Peshwai Paithani Saree

  Woven in silk, this Paithani saree has a pink-golden border with golden zari work on it. It combines sophistication and classic patterns to enhance its beauty.

How To Style Paithani Sarees for Different Occasions

With rich craftsmanship, designs, patterns, colours, Paithani sarees need to be styled in a unique way. Here are some styling tips for different occasions.

• Paithani Sarees for Wedding

  Paithani sarees are the essence of every Maharashtrian bridal trousseau. Drape these sarees in the classic styles of the open pallu and pleated pallus. The sarees are also available in ready-to-wear designer concepts too. While picking theblouse design for your Paithani saree, focus on elements such as the back of the blouse and the sleeves the most. Modern fabrics, lace, net, georgette, and contemporary necklines, such as cold shoulder or off-shoulder can give your saree a modern look instantly. Other ways to add a modern element to your overall Paithani saree look is adding a metallic belt or taking a net dupatta on your head. Accessorize your sarees with gold jewelleries, especially nath, Laxmi haar and green bangles to lock your look for a wedding day.

• Paithani Sarees for Festive Events

  The festive seasons are a time to showcase the best of your wardrobe collection. A Paithani saree is one of the best choices for you to drape on any festive occasion. Experiment different styles by using a rich raw silk blouse material. You can go for a monochrome look (same colour saree and blouse), different coloured saree with a different coloured blouse for a subtle yet bold look or pair with bright crop tops or blouse to add a little edge. Finally, you can accessorize with traditional or designer jewelleries for an innovative festive look.

• Family Get Together

  Sarees are an integral part of every Indian woman’s wardrobe and are a preferred attire especially at family get together like poojas, parties, birthdays, anniversaries etc. Enhance your elegance and style quotient with gorgeous georgette Paithani silk sarees. These sarees introduce the wearer to a blissful blend of traditional and contemporary ethnic fashion. These sarees are practically weightless – and can be adorned with embroidery and embellishments. Style them with designer blouses and minimal jewellery to achieve the party look.

Nauvrai Paithani Saree Draping Styles

Navari Paithani saree is known for its long length of 9 yards (8.23 meters). Paithani saree styles are famous for traditional events such as festivals and weddings. It can be draped in different styles.

Traditional Nauvari saree draping

This draping style binds them to Marathi culture's heritage and values. Follow these steps to learn the traditional Nauvari draping style:

• Step 1 - Drape your saree around your waist, leaving plenty of fabric on the right side. Tie the left end of the saree to the right side of your neck.
• Step 2 - Begin making tidy pleats along the pallu with the width of the saree. Drape them from front to back and right to left. Drape the border tightly and then wrap it around the back and tuck it to the left.
• Step 3 - Start making pleats from the fabric loop. Begin on the right and leave enough fabric for one pleat on the left. Turn the pleats to the right side and wrap them with the saree edge that was leftover. Pull a piece of inner fabric from the centre waist and drape it over the pleats, twisting the inner fabric to secure the pleats.
• Step 4 - Stretch your legs open and fold the middle pleats in half. Take the mid-fabric edge to the back from between the knees, tucking it into the middle back and making tidy pleats.
• Step 5 - Secure the shoulder pleats with a pin to finish the draping.

Peshwai Nauvari saree draping

The basic draping style of the Peshwai Nauvari saree is very similar to the traditional Nauvari saree draping, with the exception of the front drape, which has a front border drape. Follow these steps to learn more about the saree draping style:

• Step 1 - When diving the pleats, leaving a larger portion to the right and a smaller portion to the left, pick the edge and tuck it into the centre's back portion.
• Step 2 - Return to the front lower pleats and take the edge from the right knee, tucking it to the left side in a curvy form.
• Step 3 - Keep doing these 5 or 6 times, you will have the zigzag effect till the floor-length.
• Step 4 - Continue with arranging the bodice drape and shoulder pleats.

Contemporary Marathi saree draping

This is a more realistic variation of the traditional Marathi Paithani saree. Use these steps to drape a contemporary Marathi saree.

• Step 1 - Wear shorts instead of a petticoat for this.
• Step 2 - Take one end over the right waist, let some fabric loose then make a double knot in between the saree across the waist right over the navel.
• Step 3 - Take the loose fabric between the legs and make small pleats and tuck it in behind. Now take the front length of the saree and make pleats and tuck it in the center.
• Step 4 - Bring the saree around the waist towards the front and make pleats for the pallu. Secure it with a pin over the left shoulder making a really short pallu length.

Contemporary Marathi dhoti saree draping

This incredible saree draping style has a rustic, country feel to it. The best part is that this saree draping style does not require an underskirt; you can use slacks. Simply follow these steps to learn the draping style:

• Step 1 - To begin, draping the saree around your waist is a good place to start. Put the rest of the saree on your right side and a one-yard length on the left. Pick two ends and tie them around your waist in the middle (while leaving one-yard length on the left). Pick the lower end and tuck it between your legs in the back.
• Step 2 - Pick up the loose portion on the right side and begin making five to six pleats, tucking them in the middle waist, facing the left.
• Step 3 - Take the loose fabric between the legs and make small pleats and tuck it in behind. Now take the front length of the saree and make pleats and tuck it in the center.Step 3 - Create four to five pleats in the pallu. Use a safety pin to secure the pleated end of the pallu for a crisp look. Bring the pallu in front of you, through the back, and over your left shoulder.

How To Maintain and Store Your Paithani Saree?

Paithani saree requires immense care for it runs the risk of getting ruined through improper storage or wash. Here are some key points you should be aware of when cleaning and storing your sarees.

• Never hand-wash or machine-wash.
• In case the saree gets stained, immediately wipe the stain off with cold water.
• It is advisable to only dry-clean Paithani silk saree.
• Never hang your Paithani saree to dry in direct sunlight as doing so will cause the colour to fade.
• Store the Paithani saree in a muslin cloth.
• Do not use naphthalene balls or chemicals where you store the saree.
• Provide good air circulation where you store the saree.
• Change folds after every use because folding it the same way might leave permanent creases on the saree.
• Protect the saree from humid weather especially monsoon.

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